| Boudhanath
is among the largest stupas in South Asia, and it has become
the focal point of Tibetan Buddhism in Nepal. Colored white,
it rises thirty-six meters overhead. The stupa is located on
the ancient trade route to Tibet, and generations of Tibetan
merchants rested and offered prayers here over many centuries.
When refugees entered Nepal from Tibet in the 1950s, many of
them decided to live around Boudhanath. They established many
gompas, and the "Little Tibet" of Nepal was born.
This "Little Tibet" is still the best place in the
Valley to observe Tibetan lifestyle. Monks walk about in saffron
robes, Tibetans walk with prayer wheels in their hands, and
the rituals of prostration are presented to the Buddha as worshippers
circumambulate the stupa in a clockwise fashion on their hands
and knees, bowing down to their lord.
Many
people believe that Boudhanath was constructed in the fifth
century, but definite proof is lacking. It was almost certainly
built during the Licchavi period (300-879 AD), in an isolated
location or in a town that later crumbled away. An archive
credits Manadev I (ruled 464-505) while Gopalaraja Vamsali,
chronicle of Gopala Kings compiled by the fourteenth century,
credits Sivadeva I (ruled 590-604) for erecting the original
Bodhanath Stupa. Whereas, the Tibetans who settled around
the area believe that the stupa is of Tibetan foundation.
The most probable explanation will be that the stupa was originally
built by Manadev I, then a shell, entirely covering the dome,
was laid by his successor, Sivadev I, and then another layer
was added to the dome when the Tibetans arrived in Kathmandu
through the trade route. This explanation suits the traditional
construction of a stupa as successive layers are added by
donors to make the stupa dome bigger and stronger. A legend
has it that a woman requested a Valley king for a donation
of ground required to build a stupa. She said she needed land
covered by one buffalo's skin. The king consented to give
it to her. She cut a buffalo skin into thin strips and circled
off a fairly large clearing. The king had no choice but to
give her the land. This spot is also said to be how and where
the Boudhanath came to be built.
The
stupa stands on a three platforms, one on top of the other.
Each platform is known as Vimsatikona, the platform of twenty
angles. These platforms form a mandala structure with the
stupa as the center. The huge, white dome of the Boudha is
known as the anda, the egg, or garbha, womb, which represents
the creation of the Earth. Each stupa, even the small ones
skirting a larger stupa, is said to contain the ashes of a
saint or to commemorate them. Boudha stupa is said to entomb
the remains of the sage Kasyap who is venerable both to Buddhists
and Hindus. Also believed to be within the dome are the five
Dhyani Buddhas, or Tathagatas. There are eighty small recesses
at the base of the dome with a Buddha sculpture in each. Above
the dome is the four sided harmika, and each face has a painted
pair of eyes looking in one of the four directions. The fashion
of painting eyes on the harmika was started only in the fifteenth
century. Some say that the set of eyes are that of Buddha's
below which lies the whole world while others say they represent
the sun and the moon. Above these eyes is a small eye which
may be interpreted as the third eye, signifying the power
of the god. Between the eyes is a symbol like a question mark,
which some interpret as a nose, but it is actually the Nepali
number "one." Buddhists use this symbol to indicate
that there is only way out of the earthly suffering, the path
led by Buddha, and others simply think of it as unity. Rising
above harmika is the central spire constituted of a thirteen
tiered finial, which are plated with copper. The peculiarity
about the finial of Boudha to that of other stupas around
the Kathmandu Valley is that the finial has four sided plates
forming a pyramid instead of circular disks. The finial serves
to remind people that there are thirteen obstacles to enlightenment.
Only after transcending these barriers can one reach the top
to the parasol, or nirvana. The pinnacle of the Boudhanath
Stupa is also known as bodhi which means perfect knowledge.
The
whole area is rich of Tibetan culture and displays some of
the finest forms of Tibetan art that can be seen in the Kathmandu
Valley. Colorful thangkas, Tibetan jewelry, hand-woven carpets,
masks, and khukuri knives are sold there in stalls. Smaller
stupas are located at the base. Gompa monasteries, curios
shops, and restaurants surround Bouddhanath, Nepal's largest
Buddhist stupa. Although similar in design to its smaller
counterpart, Swayambhu, Boudha has a rounded top to its dome
whereas Swayambhu's is flat.
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