| Legend
tells that one day Lord Shiva grew tired of his palace atop
Mt. Kailas, his armies of ghosts and spirits, and even Parbati,
his beautiful wife. Through his cosmic powers he searched for
a perfect place where he could take leave. The answer came clearly
to be the Kathmandu Valley. Without telling anyone, he ran away
from his palace and came to live in Slesmantak Forest in the
Valley. He gained great fame there as Pashupati, Lord of the
Animals, before other gods discovered his hiding place and came
to fetch him. He disguised himself as a majestic buck and shirked
his duties when other lords asked for his help. When Shiva would
not yield to their pleas, they planned to use force. Vishnu
grabbed him by his horns and they shattered into pieces. Vishnu
established a temple with the broken horns as a linga at the
bank of the Bagmati River. As time went by, the temple was buried
and forgotten among men for a long period. Then a cow was known
to have secretly sprinkled her milk over a mound. Curiously,
when the cow herders dug around the spot, they found the lost
linga and again built a temple in reverence. Lord Shiva, as
his worshippers know, loves to be truant. He once more escaped
from Mt. Kailas and came back to the Slesmantak Forest as a
Kirati hunter, but Parbati followed him disguised as a beautiful
huntress. Shiva tried to seduce her, discovered who she was,
and returned home shamefully.
The
surroundings in which these events occurred became known as
the Pashupati area that has been worshipped by those faithful
to Shiva for at least fifteen hundred yeas. However ancient
the legend may be, the first proof to the establishment of
the Pashupatinath Temple dedicated to Pashupati is in an inscription
on a Ratnesvara linga dated to be from 477 AD. Another inscription
on a linga named Bhasmersvara, dating 533, explains the present
locality as Pashupatinath's chetra, kingdom. Some chronicles
credit Supuspa, a Licchavi king who ruled before Jayadev I
according to the genealogy by Jayadev II, for building the
temple of Pashupatinath. Chronicles also mention gifts of
a trident and a stone bull offered at Pashupatinath by Vrisadev
and Dharmadev, respectively. This information indicates the
establishment of the temple to have taken place by the beginning
of Licchavi period in 300.
The
chaturmukhalinga of Pashupatinath, a linga with four faces,
also looks similar to other lingas of the early Licchavi period.
It is one of the most venerated lingas in the whole world.
The linga, male sex organ, stands on a yoni, female sex organ,
and has four faces facing four directions and the fifth face
is presumed to be on the top. The face towards the East is
that of Tatpurush, the creator and is also known as Bhava
in the Vedas. The face toward the South is that of Aghor,
the calm aspect of the Lord. Aghor is the representation of
Yamaraj, the god of death. He has three eyes, a simple left
earring, and a nagakundala, snake earring, in his right ear.
He is also known as Sharva, the omnipresent, in Vedas. The
face towards the North is that of Vamadeva. The peculiarity
of the north face is that the hair is slanted towards the
right side forming a crown like structure. Vamadeva is known
for its kind and boon giving aspects. The face towards the
west is that of Sadojat. Sadojat means "just born,"
and its face is that of a child. In Atharva Veda, he is called
Pashupati. The fifth face, which is only imagined to be on
the top of the linga, is called Ishan. This face is the symbolic
representation of sex. It is also known as lingasharira. It
is the center of all forms of the Lord, so is the greatest
Shakti, or energy. The light from the center of the linga
is believed to spread in all directions and is also known
as eleven-rayed Rudra.
The
ritual of offering gifts to Pashupati continued over generations
as they are drawn to the religious energy of the site. By
the time of King Amsuvarma in 605, Pashupati was highly venerated
and defined in many of his quotes as the protector. The tradition
of including Pashupati in vows has continued through the Malla
era to the present. Sivadev II (694 -705) presented a silver
lotus, and his heir, Jayadev II to Pashupatinath. In the twelfth
century, Sivadev (1099-1126) donated another silver lotus
and laid a golden roof on the temple. Ananta Malla, in 1297
AD added gilded roofs and metal flags at the four corners
of the temple. Viramadevi, a princess from Bhaktapur, gilded
the bull offered by Dharmadev. When the Muslims raided Kathmandu
Valley in 1349 AD, Pashupati was pillaged. A few years later,
Jayasimha Ramavardhana rebuilt the linga that Vishnu is said
to have created and restored it at Pashupatinath. Jyotir Malla
(1408- 1428) built a golden finial for the temple. Approximate
to the time of two generations before Pratap Malla (1641-1674),
the middle roof of the temple was removed as it was in bad
condition. It was then molded into a gajura for the top of
the temple and it was left with only two stories. Pratap Malla
lived a penance at Pashupati for redemption from his sins
and offered many gifts, built many lingas and another temple.
Queen Radhilaksmi, the daughter-in-law of Pratap Malla, in
1969 renovated the whole temple after it had been infested
with termites. Since then, it remains to be completely renovated,
though there have been continuous offerings to the temple
during the Shah dynasty that followed the Malla dynasty when
Prithvi Narayan Shah took over the throne of Kathmandu Valley
in 1768. These offerings have further developed the temple
complex into the sight it is today.
A
circuit of the Pashupati area leads past a sixth century statue
of Buddha, an eighth century statue of Brahma, the creator,
skeletal images guarding temple gates, and gold covered temples.
Other sights within the complex are the Rajraswari Temple,
built in 1407, the Kailas area with lingas more than fourteen
hundred years old, the Gorakhnath Temple, and the courtyard
of Biswarup. A gold-plated roof, silver doors, and woodcarvings
of fine quality decorate the Pashupatinath Temple structure.
The Guheswari Temple is also found within the complex, restored
in 1653, represents female power. It is dedicated to Satidevi,
Shiva's first wife, who gave up her life in the flames of
her father's fire ritual because he insulted Shiva. The Kirateswar
Temple was built to commemorate the unfortunate event for
Lord Shiva of seducing his own disguised wife Parbati. There
are also rows of Shiva shrines around the complex and Hindu
pilgrims from across South Asia offer puja worship to Shiva,
the Lord of Destruction.
The
Bagmati River flows close by, and the Arya Ghat cremation
grounds are there. We advise photographers to use discretion
if taking photos of cremations and of bereaved families. Sadhus,
sages who follow the lifestyle of Shiva, may be seen covered
in ashes and minimal clothing. They ask for money in case
one should want to take their photos. The main Pashupatinath
courtyard may be entered by those of Hindu faith only.
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