Gardens
in Tokyo 1.
Kiyosumi
Cursive syllables cut in the rock: the frog leaps the sound of
water. Smiling
small women pace gravel paths, seeking Bashos blessing before
sitting down to lunch; silver pencils held in new leather caress
haiku strokes away from traffic noise, financial crisis, commuters
competing to crowd in subway cars.
Smooth stepping stones line the pools edge: ducks on water like
pebbles on ice. Driver
Daimatsu bored with waiting buys popcorn casts it on the water: at first
incredulous ducks gather joined by gulls garnered on an avian internet;
an egret disgusted at such gusto strides away on thin yellow legs.
Market forces find a garden: birds fight for food the sound of water. 2.
Kitanomaru Park Bonzai,
bushido kimono, kamikazi useful words for the visitor says the
book. Im
similarly in two minds coming from the crowds which waved paper flags
at the Emperors appearance. Crows are in the pines. At the gate
families greet each other with bows, light cigarettes and gossip, their
children play tag, pull faces, poke out their tongues then giggle as
the pink-faced gaijin passes. Bonzai,
bushido kimono, kamikazi useful words for the visitor says
the book. Black
windowed buses line the road the crude outline of all Japans islands
in white paint with slogans sinister in their extent. The Rising Sun
flag flutters from bull bars. A jack-booted man with swastika armband
passes unseeing policemen. Crows are in the pines. Bonzai,
bushido kimono, kamikazi useful words for the visitor says the
book. By
the fountains a man props his bicycle against a tree, sits and takes out
bread. Crows come down from the trees swooping and squawking; pigeons
gather to gobble the mans scraps with quiet, orderly greed. The crows
keep their distance pecking each other croaking frustration. Is this
the natural order? Will the crows in time come to the front? Bonzai,
bushido kimono, kamikazi useful words for the visitor says the
book.
3. Hama-rikyu
A
garden as old as the shoguns, shorn to perfection, difficult to approach
a skywalk across expressways or you dodge juggernauts at the Tokyo wholesale
market. Its raining: Im alone on new-raked gravel. A
heron rises from the reed-walls of an imperial duck-shoot, skirts symmetrical
pines, flies seawards under the muslined harbour bridge. A lone machine
dispenses sweet coffee in hot slim cans. From a log shelter I attempt
a sketch. The tidal pool is in no mood for reflection. Planked bridge
built Kyoto style and teahouse sit on a surface of corrugated card.
The mist lifts like a theatre trick and skyscrapers stare down. I
lack the artists eye to filter culture from capital, feudal heritage
from Forties horrors. A wizened couple come near, gesture their
wish for me to snap them with green cardboard Fujimatic. Toothy thanks,
grins, a raised hand to show how tall the foreigner seems. The tidal
pool resumes reflecting timber, trees, towering office blocks. |