| Weaving
in Nepal has a long history though no ancient rugs
have been found as testaments to the fact. However,
the writings by ancient travelers and traders describing
the clothes and rugs of the region confirm their
existence. Rugs served as important material against
the harsh cold in the Himalayas, particularly during
winter months, and people from different regions
had specific names for rugs and clothes although
their sources came from the same animals such as
yak, sheep and rabbit. They used these animals'
wool and some plants for fibers. Cotton is also
known to have been used from early centuries of
the Christian era, especially in the hilly and southern
plain region, but they were weaved using different
processes and had different names from one community
to another.
The
first written evidence of weaving in Nepal is
in the Indian sources of the Asoka period in the
second century AD. The Arthasastra refers to Nepali
blankets sold in Kautilyas. The description of
the blankets in the book says that there were
eight small parts sown together to form a whole,
black in color, waterproof and called Bhingisi.
Another book, Apasarka, of about the same time
describes the same woolen blankets sold in Pataliputra
(which is now known as Patna in India). By the
third century this trade appears to have been
well established between Kathmandu and Pataliputra.
Textile in Nepal seems to have been developed
before the Indian influence entered the country
with pilgrims and traders from the South.
Chinese
pilgrims who followed the paths of Buddha also
reported to Hiuen Tsiang in 629 that Nepalese
artistic skills were appreciable. By saying arts
it should have also included weaving which was
practiced in almost every house to fulfill their
need for warmth.
The
blankets mentioned in these ancient books most
probably refer to radi, which are still being
produced in the Himalayan region of Nepal. These
radi are used as blankets against cold and rain.
The black color mentioned in the writings would
have referred to the wool of yak or bhatuwal sheep
found in the Himalayan region. Bharuwals are hardy
mountain sheep found in the Himalayas and produce
thick wool.
From
early statues like that of Yaksha from the first
century evidence is found of the dress worn in
that time. It is a simple long cloth, probably
cotton, covering the body. At that time, these
cloths were homespun. These dhakas are made of
different colored cotton fibers weaved in various
patterns. The dhaka clothes were cut and made
into caps for men and blouses and shawls for women.
The dhaka topi cap was a substitute for the traditional
black topi worn mostly by Newars in Kathmandu.
The popularity of the dhaka topi increased amongst
the people of Nepal to the extent that it was
promoted to the national dress of the country.
Dhakas were also made in Palpa in the Western
hilly region and are thought to have developed
the finer examples than those in other regions.
During
the ninth century the woven clothes were used
to cover religious manuscripts to protect them
from dust and decay. Clothes were also used for
thangka and other religious paintings. Most of
them were painted on cotton cloth while more expensive
and valuable ones were created using silk.
In
1722, Father Ippolito Desideri wrote in his description
about people in Nepal that they wore long clothes
that fell to the ankles. They had trousers and
slippers made of straw. Even today straw slippers
are seen in the Kathmandu Valley, worn mostly
by the Newars during festivals and marriage ceremonies.
Later, in 1811, Kirkpatrick commented in his notebook
about the coarse cotton, hemp sackcloth, and rug
trading within the region. Clothes have been known
by different names in the communities of Nepal.
Coarse cotton cloth like khadi and chana were
used by middle and lower class people in the central
hilly region, while upper class people used imported
cloths like finer Chinese and Tibetan cotton and
silk. Magars, who primarily resided in the hills,
also used these kinds of cloths for weaving.
In
Jumla, in the Northern mountain region of Nepal,
the woolen rug they produced from yak wool was
known as pheruwa. The Bos gruniens species of
yak produces the best wool. Sheep wool was also
preferred and was known as kachar. These rugs
would have been similar to the type of woolen
rug mentioned in Indian sources to have been brought
down to Pataliputra for trade. The coarse cotton
cloths in this area were called kharun while the
lighter, finer ones were known as chourput. The
people in this region used a wooden stick spindle
known as a phan which made it possible for women
to spin the wool while walking. Similar stick
spindles known as taraps were used in Dolpo, another
settlement in the Himalayas in the Northern mountain
region of Nepal. However, taraps had small bowls
to help the sticks rotate. Gurungs in the hilly
region used charka, a wooden spinning wheel, for
the same purpose.
One
of the best known and widely produced weavings
in Nepal is pashmina. There is no evidence that
reveals when its production and use began. "Pashm"
means wool in the Persian language. Cashmere was
derived from the shawls sold in Kashmir to the
West of Nepal. But the weavers in Kashmir made
the shawl while the people from the mountain region
of Nepal sold them the wool they needed. The same
wool was used to make pashmina in Nepal. This
wool is taken from a species of goat, Capra hircus,
which is found in Central Asia and along the Himalayan
region. The wool from this species is said to
be better than the finest merino wool. However,
the best shawls were made of silk and there are
many records of silk being used by kings of the
region from its early history. Silk fiber is affected
by what moth and butterfly larvae feed upon. Best
quality silk is made by Bombax mori feeding on
mulberry leaves.
Another
type of raw material mostly used in villages is
the stem fibers of nettle plants. It is said that
Milarepa, a highly regarded Buddhist monk, who
preached Buddhism across Tibet and Nepal (what
years) was also dressed in simple clothes made
of nettle fibers. The stems of this plant are
collected after the monsoon up until spring and
only the outer layering of the stem is used. Hindus
giant nettle, locally known as allo and scientifically
as Girardinia diversifolia is the best type for
fibers.
Dyes
have been an essential part of weaving. For the
weaving of rugs, only white wools were dyed while
black wools were considered valuable and used
in its natural color. From early times, dyes were
extracted from natural herbs and minerals. Madder,
Rubia cardifolia, a climbing plant is one of the
most valued plants. It is possible to extract
different shades of red like deep red, light pink,
and orange from this plant. Rhubarb is also used
as well as indigo, walnut, sorrel, and barberry,
Barberis asiatica. These plants have been used
since early times and handed down through generations
of weaving families and are still being used to
dye rugs and fibers.
The
well known carpet making tradition entered Nepal
only in 1959 along with around 15,000 Tibetan
refugees who fled to the country. The Tibetan-Nepalese
carpet making industry started with this group
of Tibetan weavers and remained small up until
it was revealed to the West and flourished in
the years that followed. In 1961, the Swiss organized
Jawalakhel Handicraft Center was formed and soon
became the focus of carpet making in Nepal. The
master weavers from Gyantse, the best carpet making
area of central Tibet, who settled in Nepal eventually
taught their skills to others resulting in an
increase in production of better carpets. The
hand spun wool, high quality dyes, and Tibetan
designs produced carpets that would soon grow
into a major industry in the country. The Swiss
again helped in marketing by generating a market
in Europe and promoting the art there as well
as establishing system of design with graph paper
to produce uniformity. Then carpet weaving industry
spread around Nepal where Tibetan refugees had
settled, especially inside the Kathmandu Valley.
By mid 1970, the business was firmly established
and continues to grow today.
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